Saturday 29 September 2018

29/09/18 Tom Price

29/09/18 To Tom Price

We got away from Potshot at 8.05, with a long run ahead of us.
My Garmin GPS was totally stupid about how to get to Tom Price, and it was the same for John's BMW GPS (also made by Garmin).  -Showed a much longer route than we needed to take.  (John reckons it doesn't know that the roads are sealed.)
Google Maps once again got it right.
Very disappointed with the GPS.  Goes to show that a) one should carry paper maps, and b) one should plan the route so as to have an idea of where one is going, independent of what the GPS says.
The petrol stations shown by the GPS were bullshit as well, -a critical thing for motorbike travellers.  What was spot on, was the Fuel Map Australia app on my phone, which I use to log fills.  I recommend it.
I reckon Google should make GPS's.  They'd be reliable and make a killing.  At the very least they'd make Garmin improve their game.

We stopped at Nanutarra roadhouse for fuel and lunch.  Some outside eateries have birds which walk around cleaning up the scraps.  They have this guy:
They did also have some of these:

It was a long ride to Tom Price, getting up to only 32C, but it felt a bit warm.  I employed my wet-scarfe for the first time this trip,  It may be in constant use from now on.  Scenery started out with low bushes and grass, with a few short trees, changing to occasional bread-loaf hills, to some serious red coloured rock formations and hills the closer we got to Tom Price.  There were some purple fluffy flowers (as per a previous photo), occasional patches of prostrate white flowers (looked fluffy),  bushes of white flowers, and some red & yellow flower bushes.  I didn't stop to take any photos because I was now travelling with someone.  We rode near or at the speed limit, with a nice tail breeze, (which wasn't so nice when side on).  Very little traffic.
A real frustration toward Tom Price was the automatic stop lights around bridge works.  Must have been 4 or 5 of them, and we seemed to get all reds.  Nothing worse than having a nice run interrupted by unscheduled stops.  Each one is a chance to fumble and drop the bike.

Filled up at the servo, where the Eagles' football win had some patrons in a frenzy.  I thought we'd stumbled into Deliverance country. 
Checked in to the motel at the pub bar (office closed).  Couldn't believe the volume of the music in there.  No way could we stop for a drink.  (Has to be an OH&S issue for the staff.)  Got into our room, John bought a slab of Furphy, and we downed a couple before wandering down the street and finding what looked like a hamburger van.  Sort of.  Anything so long as it was chicken, with chips.  Filled us up.

30/09/18 Mine tour

We rocked up at the info office to see if we could do a Karijini National park tour tomorrow (everyone says we have to see the park).  Next tour is Tuesday, which would mean two extra nights here instead of one.  Expensive, and not particularly appealing.  Instead, we ended up with brochures, and agreement to hire a 4WD tomorrow.  Even cheaper than if we'd done the tour tomorrow.

So we collected our hard hat and safety glasses for the mine tour.
See how sexy they make me look.
We all bundle on to a big bus, and it takes us out to the mine, after getting a lecture about do's and dont's.
The Tom Price Rio Tinto mine (and others nearby) mines iron ore, crushes it and sends it mostly to China.
We drive into the mine area, and stop at one of the pits (not being worked today).  Again, we are told where we can't go.
Caged tourists:
This is what they are looking at.  One bloody big hole in the ground.
 Equipment for measuring ground water, and movement of soil.
One side of the hill which has been cut out where we are standing.  So not only is the pit deep, a lot of the hill has already been excavated.
The pit again.
Behind our tour bus, a small work vehicle trundles past.  -We didn't get to see a really big dump truck.  (The big ones are diesel electric.)
 Poster in the 'cage'.
Ken and MMBear relaxing.
Ken and MMBear in front of one of the small diggers left for tourists to look at.
This water sprayer trundled past, spraying the road to keep dust down.  What a fun job!
 Conveyer belts move the ore around for processing.
 
 The conveyer belts are long.  Kilometres.
 A digger you wouldn't want to tangle with.
Belts and more belts.
 Here the waste drops off the end of the belt, to be carted away in trucks.
The size of the machinery is astounding.

We saw an ore train which was filling by tunnel method.  It drives continuously through a tunnel, inside which ore is dropped into its carriages.
The other method is filling them one at a time, which is slower.

Unfortunately the windows on the bus were coated with reflective film, which didn't allow decent photographs, and we only had the one stop.
Despite the dire warnings about big fines for individuals, bus driver, company, up for big fines for not wearing seatbelts, the Scandanavian guy in front of us not only couldn't be bothered on the way out, but couldn't shut up either.  The driver threatened to turn off his mike.  The driver/guide was a mine of information, but the steady stream of info and statistics was far too much to take in.

We got back to our room, grabbed some lunch snacks and ate under a shelter outside.  A few beers were consumed.  The cool breeze was pleasant.  We "shot it".

Outside our room, this photo illustrates the ambience of the place fairly well.

Tea was an uninspiring meal at the local Thai restaurant.

Wednesday 26 September 2018

26/09/18 Exmouth

25/09/18 On the way in to Exmouth, I stopped at the info centre to get the good oil on what to do and where to go.  Came away with a handful of paper, even menus of local eateries.
My accommodation at the Potshot when I got to it is basic but adequate.  Having an ensuite when you rock up hot and sweaty is just the best thing.  And it wasn't expensive.  The room is lined with small corrugated iron, one small window.  The airconditioner is the old type in the wall, but works OK.
Tea was at their restaurant.  Prices highish, but the chicken caesar salad was good and big.  Little Creatures cider is OK, but not special.  (Still looking for that elusive magical cider with real taste, a bit on the rough side.)
I got back to my room after tea and just crashed!  The day had been bigger than I thought.  Stirred a few times in the night, but slept through til nearly 8.

26/09/19 Got away around 9, heading for Turquoise Bay (recommended by Don) for some snorkelling.
My technology let me down.  I gawk at the sights and get lost easily, so I like the GPS to show me where to go.  It won't find anything here.  the street names show on the map, so it knows them.  Its as if they didn't bother to index them for searching in this part of the world.  Streets in Exmouth just can't be found.  It was the same further south.  So I tried Navigator, the offline map app on my phone.  Same problem.  Google saved the day.  Put Turquoise Bay into Google Maps on my phone, and it unerringly led me there.

On the way to Cape Range National Park, I passed lots of antennae, of all shapes and sizes.  Saw the HF array that was used to communicate with US submarines before satellite communication took over.  Might still be a backup, dunno.
Between the RAAF base on the way in, the Navy base out there and an Army base nearby, most of this whole area is Commonwealth controlled.  Then there is parks & wildlife controlling the reserves.  Lucky there's a bit of private land for people to actually live on!
While gawping at the antennae, I swivelled my head around to see a group of emus on the side of the road in front of one of the bases.  Luckily they didn't want to cross the road, cos I didn't have time for avoidance.
Those are the first emus I've seen on this trip!

I'm pretty hopeless at absorbing directions, or I forget lots, probably both.
Arrived at Turquoise Bay to find lots of people (no spare parking spaces), a toilet block, and that's it.  Where to hire some snorkelling gear?
So I rang (cousin) Don, who has been everywhere in Oz.  Found out that I should have stopped at the park information centre I'd breezed past.
Rode back.  Hired mask, snorkel, flippers, for what I thought was a reasonable $10.  Got told that Oyster Stack was the best place to snorkel, but might have to climb up and down rocks a bit. So I rode out there.

I'd worn my bathers under my riding jeans, so just had to strip down to those and don a t-shirt.  Wandered down to the sea from the carpark, and donned said snorkelling gear.  Here is where I should have had an 'action camera' to put to use.   But I don't, so no photos of what I saw.
The coral and fish are a few metres from the 'beach'.  You just have to drift around close by in shallow water to observe them.  The fish aren't shy.  Must be used to tourists.  -And there were lots of tourists (and fish) there.
I saw two colourful corals.  A blue-purple brain coral, and a bright green stag-horn coral (Think I've got the names right.)  No big fish, but a fair amount of colour.  As at Coral Bay, the most colourful and interesting were the parrot fish.

My swim was spoiled somewhat by two problems.  I had trouble to get the mask not leaking in water, and it was a bit blowy.  The wind meant choppy waves which ensured the occasional mouthful of seawater, annd you got pushed around by the waves.  Climbing back to shore was tricky, because the waves threw me off balance all the time.  But it was a good experience.  I didn't find the water too cold.  But I did think someone should have told me to get out there early to avoid the wind (so said someone I spoke to in the carpark).

So here is the procedure for a motorcyclist returning from the beach:
1. Undo string around neck for key hanging there, open topbox containing precious stuff.
2. Remove sopping t-shirt, put on dry long sleeved-shirt.
3. Remove sopping bathers.  Hope no-one is offended by my bare bum.  (Its probably my bare droopy chest that's worse. - Too much information?)
4. Dry nether regions and legs a bit.  Put on undies.
5. Take off deck shoes.  Scrape sand off legs & feet.  Put on socks.
6. Put on riding jeans.
7. Stow wet stuff in bag, everything in topbox.
8. Hop on, ride off unsteadily on dirt road to the site.  (The road the Turquoise Bay was totally sealed.)

Here would be the procedure for a car driver returning from the beach.
1. Don't be so paranoid about security, get key/fob from bag taken to beach.  Unlock car.
2. Throw towel over seat.  Get in.
3. Drive off confidently on whatever road surface is there.

I rode back, stopping at the visitor centre to return the snorkelling gear, to get my $50 deposit.  It was in the form of a card imprint, which they'd used if I didn't return the gear.  I haven't seen one of those mechanical gadgets in years.  they still exist!
On the way out I snapped yet another keep-out sign.
Definitely bad news here in school holidays.  The whole park is full.


On the way in, I'd seen a guy stopped behind an ant hill.  I thought he was photographing one up close.  As I rode past, I saw what he was really photographing.  There is the ant mound which was hiding...
Sturt Desert Peas.  There you are Michele.  I resolved to get it on the way out.
A closer look.
And just one spray.  No black centres, but it has to be them.
I only saw three small patches of these flowers on the roadside in the park.
BTW, my monthly WA Holiday Park Pass that I'd bought at Kalbarri, was OK in Cape Range National Park.

Rode 'home', hopped in the shower (bliss), had a lunch snack, did some laundry.  Just my luck, the first machine I tried just swallowed my money.  I rang the office and they sent a fellow with some more money for another machine.  Then onto this blog.  And by now, my stuff on the line will be dry as the proverbial.  Off to collect it, then check out the local Thai restaurant.  :)

27/09/18 Veeeerrryy slow start today.  Lounged around until midday, then decided to go for a walk.  I wanted a plug so I could wash things in the basin (usually they don't supply plugs).  Chickie in IGA yesterday couldn't tell me if they had one or not, just where it would be if they did.  I'd looked without success.
Google says the hardware store is 2.8km.  I can do that.  So off I trot.  A bit of breeze, so not too hot.  Get there, buy a plug, walk back to the shopping centre feeling hot and sweaty.  Must have walked miles n miles!  But the Samsung Health app on my phone still doesn't have me reaching that magical 10,000 steps today.  I reckon it lies!
Weakened, bought a roll and a 'Barista' coffee milk.  (I'm getting addicted to them.  But hey, cheaper and probably healthier than a beer.)  I just feel guilty, buying a drink in a plastic bottle in a state where they probably don't even recycle them.
Back to the digs to cool down.  The aircon soon has my room nice.

The resident/backpacker sitting area here is huge.  And behind it is a very big hotel eating/drinking/swimming complex.  There is indoor dining, or sitting around a swimming pool.  On the left of this area is the residents/backpackers kitchen.  Not too shabby.  More frying pans in there than you'd see in a shop.
(I just go in of a morning to boil the jug for my dripper coffee.)
Under the palm tree was this little guy.
Look how well camouflaged he is.  Saw a few of them crossing the road in the park yesterday on the way to snorkelling.  But unlike the slow sleepy lizards at home, these fellas zoom across the road.  Unlikely to get squashed.

While I was out on my walk, I came across an unlikely combination, a Europcar hire joint and secondhand bookshop.  Of course I had to have a look.  The lady was out front feeding a quite tame grey butcher bird with mince.  Another one rocked up which I thought was a murray magpie, but no, it was a different type of butcher bird (obvious by the beak, when I had a decent look).  A crested pigeon was hanging around.  She said they will eat meat when there's no seed or bread on offer (news to me).  She had to stop leaving meat on the floor inside the shop for the 'tame' butcher bird, because seagulls were getting in on the act.
I didn't buy any books (expensive at $12 or so each), but learnt a bit about birds.

Saw these plants all over the place in bare paddocks like weeds.

Tea was a seafood pasta in the Potshot.  I had to go out to the back garden with my ale, when the table next door became infested with demanding little kids.  -Really sounding like a grumpy old man, eh?

28/09/18  Another slow start.
Breakfast and coffee.  I have to go to the shared kitchen to get boiling water for my dripper.  Reckon they've got enough frypans?

Chatting to the next door neighbours, from New Zealand.  Then while catching up with the things I keep an eye on, Facebook led me astray.  I stumbled across a Far Side (cartoon) group.  Don't know where the time went!  Love that humour.
Eventually got on the bike to do some tootling round.  Posted some stuff home (won't need t much warm clothing now).  Did a bit of shopping.  Treated myself to another one of those decadent Barista coffee milks.  Then just rode around the town for a bit.

Look at the weeds I saw.
 These have the black bit.

Leah wanted to know what the Potshot hotel looks like.
This is the view of the hotel part from the road carpark.  At night it's very brightly lit up.
This is looking at the entrance to the accommodation.  My donga is behind that ute on the right.

Now John has joined me again.  He will sleep on the floor tonight.
Tomorrow we go on together to Tom Price.
Tea was a couple of beers and chicken caesar salad for both of us, at Potshot.
On the way back to our room, we stopped in at the bottle shop.  The only cask port they had was Renmano.  Not normally a brand I'd buy.  The port confirms that status.  (A cask packs better than a bottle.)

25/09/18 Coral Bay

25/09/18 After a shower, another nice breakfast and my coffee, I was on the road by 8, because I hoped to do something useful in Coral Bay on the way to Exmouth.  (Coral Bay and all other stops anywhere near being booked out, Exmouth was my next bed.)
After the busy road on the way to Carnarvon, it was still busy, but less semi traffic.  Less litter too.  Very sad to see the litter on the main road once away from Kalbarri.  Some travellers are just pigs.  Contrast the number of drink cans & bottles with what you see in SA where we've had container deposits for years.
Some politicians (and their container company executive mates) should be sent off somewhere foreign in a barge.
Again, very pleasant riding.  22C, sunny.

This was one caravan park on riding in to Coral Bay.  Chokkas.


Info joint.  Its Tuesday, not even a public holiday!
 The beach isn't too thick with people, but there were families everywhere.
The other caravan park.  Not even a tent site free, but I don't know if I'd enjoy feeling like a sardine in a can anyway.
Cabins facing the foreshore.  One guy was lounging out front of one.  I asked him how far ahead he'd booked.  Year and a half.  I didn't ask how much.

So I went in to a shop and booked the only thing I could in the time, a glass-bottom boat cruise of 1 hour.  (The one with snorkelling had left already.
Then had a pastie and strong coffee milk and wandered around a bit for my boat to come in (so to speak).

It was actually there, (in the distance on the beach shot above).  I walked over to it.  Oh dear, looks I'm going to get my feet wet!  -I'd actually asked the girl in the shop whether I would, so I was wearing bathers and deck shoes, leaving my riding jeans and boots with the bike, and bundling keys and money into my backpack.

This nice girl gave a running commentary.  We are looking out of diagonal windows below the waterline, rather than through the bottom.  I think the windows work better.
I took lots of shots, none of which show any colour, or reflect what I actually saw.  So here is just one example.  Only a couple of coral types were coloured, so they were mostly boring, except for their intricate shapes.  Some fish were quite brightly coloured.
 These guys started trailing the boat.
 Not at all shy, and quite large.
 Again doesn't do justice to the view.
 Prettier with some sun on it, but again, phone camera doesn't do it justice.
The coral and fish looked amazingly close, and yet we were very close to shore.  The mystery of the trailing fish was answered when the boat stopped to feed them.
It probably would have been as good or better to just snorkel.  But the commentary was mildly interesting, and it was all less trouble for a guy on a motorbike.  Didn't see any turtles, sharks, whale sharks, manta rays or whales.
There are boat tours to see those things, but you have to mortgage your house to pay for them, especially if you actually get to swim with a whale shark.
On the way out I got some fuel.  Didn't fill up, just added $20 worth.  Like most other things there, very expensive fuel, and no 91RON, only 95. 

Here is a shot on the way to Exmouth, showing the ant hills, which occurred singly and in groups like this.  Funny looking squat fat things, quite unlike those in the Northern Territory.

The day started out at 22C rising to a max of 37C, before a breeze dropped it a bit 40km out of Exmouth.  But I felt fine.
The slight tail wind I had was a blessing.  Lowered the wind noise (making my music sound sweeter), and fuel economy.  5.1 L/100km from Kalbarri to Exmouth.  By contrast, usage was over 6 L/100km across the Nullarbor and up.

Saturday 22 September 2018

22/09/18 Carvarvon

22/09/18  To Carnarvon

I got away around 9.30 (time is irrelevant to us oldies).
The Kalbarri motel was almost deserted by then except for the family of dark people sitting outside next door.  (I'm guessing Sri Lankan.)  I said good morning, but got no reply.  That tough biker thing again?  -Doubt it.
I should have taken some photos.  The motel complex was huge, the room quite nice, flash pool, (the promised WiFi useless).
On my way out, this, to prove there are still some playgrounds where you can get splinters.  The foreshore on the river really is nice for families.

Denham being full up, I rode straight to Carnarvon.  The road out took me past the Kalbarri national park (where I went yesterday).  22C, no traffic, bliss.
Lots of these plants along the roadside, with occasional huge paddocks of them.
They looked intriguing.  I went looking for seeds, thinking Michele could grow some.  But they aren't flowers poking out, they are sticky cones.  Maybe they dry out and drop fine seed.  Dunno.  But I don't think our honeyeaters at home would like them.
Sorry, this closeup ended up out of focus.

I stopped at Billabong for fuel, leg stretch and a bit of grub.
Did the same as at Kalbarri, saw after I'd filled up, that I wasn't at the cheapest servo.  The name in the app for the servo I used here was even Meadow BLOCK COMPETITORS PRICES WA.  I'd stopped at the first servo I saw, which is what they'd rely on.  -Went on to get grub at the next one.
I don't bother too much about price on the bike, I take so little fuel.  But travelling in a car, it'd be useful to have the passenger check the app before stopping.  -It's called Fuel Map.  (Came with the WikiCamps app.)

After the quiet park road, I was amongst it all on the North West Coastal Highway.  A few semis, but mostly 4WDs pulling caravan, camper or boat.  Very busy.  And the paddocks changed from wheat, to low scrub, to sandy scrub.
You know you are heading north when you see the raptors circling overhead.  Even saw a a pair of those sky clowns, galahs.  Makes a change from crows (ravens).

40km out of Carnarvon, a gusty sidewind hit.  No fun at all, though it did drop the temperature from 33C to 25C very quickly.  At this point I just wanted to get there.  The aching legs were ready for a stretch too.
In Carnarvon, I went to the visitor centre to get info to peruse tonight.
Closed.  Don't they know 90% of their customers are us old farts who don't know what day of the week it is?  Unfortunately not only is it Saturday, but a long weekend, and start of school hols.  I'll try tomorrow.

The folk at the motel look like islanders, as did the ones at Billabong.  No problem, they are all nice and friendly.  Very good motel (again), and cheap online via Agoda.  I don't understand how its cheaper to go through an online service than book direct.

Here is what a room looks like after I've unloaded.


I've had a nice shower, the receptionist said its happy hour from 5 to 6.  So I'm going to get happy, and have a bangup expensive meal.  -Will suss out the cheap takeaways tomorrow.
They didn't say I couldn't park here -right outside my room in a service alley way.

$33 for a buffet.  Quite nice, but not cheap.  No fruit.
That was preceded by a happy hour ale.  Not a great environment for relaxing.  TVs spruiking the footy, screaming and whining kids bashing the entertainment machines and pool table, outside OK until smokers turned up.
The noisy kids made it into the dining room too.
So I didn't hang around the bar for more drinks.  I must be just old, but I can't abide grizzly noisy kids who are totally ignored by their parents.  Are they deaf, or just tuned out?  Too bad for the rest of us.
Fortunately its quiet in my room -or at least will be once I get that mozzie!

23/09/18  Sightseeing round Carnarvon

A slow start after continental breakfast included with room.  Surprisingly good.  Included ham, cheese, tomato etc to have on toast, as well as a decent array of cereals, yoghurt, and a pikelet machine.  (Had drip coffee in my room though.)
Got to the tourist centre around 10.  Got my map of the town.  From there moseyed around and out to the boat harbour.  These big boats were two-deep at the wharf, with quite a few further round.  I guess the fishermen take time off on a long-weekend Sunday.  (Or maybe the tide wasn't favourable at that time.)
Lots of boats around Carnarvon, both commercial and pleasure.  Probably not much else to do?

Off to the tracking station museum.  The planetarium was a blow up dome, inside which was a low resolution projector showing a film on the ceiling.  The spacecraft 'simulator' was lying down in a mock spacecraft watching a video screen. Both would have been better just watching good videos in a home-theatre environment.  I didn't bother with the actual film they had, of past NASA folk narrating their stories.
The exhibits were interesting.  Electronic stuff from my day.  And I know exactly where I was the day man landed on the moon, in the Adelaide uni physics lecture theatre watching it live on TV.  It was a momentous occasion for all, and museums like this help to remind us.  The museum has expanded in stages, and had various NASA celebrities come out to 'launch' bits, including this year.

The LED tracker antenna here, was turning.  Its supposedly being restored.  (Dunno if there was someone inside driving it.)
 Now unused, its looking a bit sad.

 Supposedly the last of the mohicans, this one.
 Two current comms dishes in the background.

Rode out to the 1 mile jetty.
Which is closed because it's too dilapidated to walk on safely.
I consoled myself with a mango smoothie in the cafe there.  The adjacent lighthouse museum was closed.  Rusting old railway gear, engines etc was nearby outside a museum also closed.

Further round the coast is The Fascine, a body of water which has a very dubious mouth to the sea.  Looks like it'd be too shallow for boats some of the time.  A couple of windsurfers were enjoying the coastline in the distance.

Rode to the Gascoyne Hotel for tea (should have walked, it isn't far).
Steak hamburger with the lot, washed down with a pint of Orchard Crush cider.
Filled me up nicely, and no whiny grizzly kids there.  :)
The beauty of a decent bathroom sink -can do the washing in it.  All up to date now, with an extra day for things to dry.  :)

24/09/18 Planning

Bit of a lousy sleep.  Dunno why, maybe worried about accommodation.  That buzzing mozzie didn't help.  Funny thing is, I got her in the bathroom this morning, and no sign she fed on me.  What, I smell bad?
Another nice breakfast.  Among all the ones there, only one kid was a real pain.
So with no sights I particularly want to see, its down to sorting out where to from here.  (Again, thankful for my phone's fast data.  The WiFi here is useless.)

I'd like to visit Coral bay, and see the reef, either snorkelling or by glass bottom boat.  Well, the place is booked out.  Not even a tent site!  Its probable I won't get to hire gear or go on a boat either, but I'll have a look.
John is meeting up with me at Exmouth on the 28th.  So now my plan is to pass through Coral Bay on the way there.  Have booked a room at Exmouth for 25th to 29th.
Again, booking sites vary to hell on price and availability.  Trivago has proved mostly useless.  Google maps sort of works, but I mainly just randomly hammer a location and see what comes up.  In this case, booking on the resort's website direct (Potshot Hotel Resort, still booked through a 3rd party site) proved to be the cheapest option. 
Again, school holidays are influencing what is available at Exmouth.

The plan from Exmouth is to head for Tom Price, provided it isn't too hot -and it looks like it won't be.

Well that was a first.  Grilled fish n chips at the Gascoyne Hotel was exactly that.   Nothing else except for a side plate of tartare sauce.  Lots of chips, but a bit of salad would have been nice.  (The fish was OK.)

Snapped some shots in the twilight on the way back from the pub.
Like many west coast towns, Carnarvon seems to wrap around all the little inlets.  It would help to be a sea lover if you lived here.

Entrance to the motel.  The palms tell the story.  Windy.
This is the first motel on this trip to feature electronic locks.  You get a keytag to place on the lock to open the room door, and a wireless fob to open the carpark sliding gate.  Should be more of it.  Its quite a nice motel, the Carnarvon Motel. Big!